The Berry Patch Granny Square
crochetberry.com/patterns/berry-patch-granny-square
A four-round classic granny square designed for absolute beginners — most people finish their first one in a single evening.
By CrochetBerry · Tested stitch by stitch · Updated

Pattern at a glance
| Skill level | Beginner |
|---|---|
| Time | ~2 evenings |
| Yarn | DK (light worsted / #3) Cotton |
| Hook | 4mm (G/6) |
| Finished size | About 15 cm (6 in) square in DK cotton |
| Gauge | Rounds 1–2 measure about 6 cm (2.4 in) across |
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What you'll need
You need small amounts of DK cotton in four colors, a 4 mm (G/6) hook, and a yarn needle. That's genuinely it — this is a great pattern for using up leftovers.
- Yarn: DK-weight cotton in Raspberry, Honey, Cream, and Sage (about 20g of each). Any DK yarn works; cotton just shows the stitches most crisply.
- Hook: 4 mm (G/6). If your squares tend to curl, size up to 4.5 mm.
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends.
- Scissors.
Abbreviations (US terms)
This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you normally follow UK patterns, note that our "double crochet (dc)" is the UK "treble."
| Abbreviation | Full term |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| dc | double crochet (US) |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sp | space |
| rnd | round |
How to make it
Work four rounds in the round, changing color each round. Every round adds four 3-dc groups, so your stitch count grows predictably: 12, 24, 36, then 48 dc. Start each round by joining the new color to any corner ch-2 space.
To begin, make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring).
Round 1: Raspberry center
Round 1 makes the four corner clusters of the square. Work these steps into your ring with Raspberry:
- Ch 3 (counts as your first dc), then work 2 dc into the ring.
- Ch 2 to form the first corner space.
- Work (3 dc into the ring, ch 2) three more times.
- Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3, then fasten off Raspberry.
Round 1 count: 4 groups of 3 dc (12 dc) and 4 corner ch-2 spaces.
Round 2: Honey
Round 2 splits each corner into two clusters. Join Honey to any corner ch-2 space, then:
- Ch 3, 2 dc into that same corner space, ch 2, 3 dc into the same space (first corner made).
- Ch 1.
- Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner space.
- Repeat steps 2–3 around, working a full corner cluster into each remaining corner.
- Ch 1, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3, and fasten off Honey.
Round 2 count: 8 groups of 3 dc (24 dc), 4 corner ch-2 spaces, and 4 side ch-1 spaces.
Round 3: Cream
Round 3 adds the first stitches along each side. Join Cream to any corner ch-2 space, then:
- Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into that corner.
- Ch 1, 3 dc into the next ch-1 side space, ch 1.
- Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner.
- Repeat steps 2–3 around — one 3-dc group in every side space, a full cluster in every corner.
- Join with a sl st and fasten off Cream.
Round 3 count: 12 groups of 3 dc (36 dc).
Round 4: Sage border
Round 4 works the same way — there are now two side spaces per side. Join Sage to any corner ch-2 space, then:
- Work (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into that corner.
- Ch 1, 3 dc into the next side space; repeat once more so both side spaces have a 3-dc group (ch 1 between them).
- Work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into the next corner.
- Repeat steps 2–3 around.
- Join with a sl st and fasten off Sage.
Round 4 count: 16 groups of 3 dc (48 dc). Your square is done.
Fastening off
- Cut a 15 cm (6 in) tail and pull it through the last loop to secure.
- Weave in all ends with the yarn needle.
- Wet or steam block, pinning the corners out to a right angle.
Common mistakes
- The square curls into a cup. Tension too tight — size up your hook and keep the yarn feeding loosely.
- The corners go wonky. You missed a corner ch-2 space, or worked a side group into a corner. Recount your groups against the numbers above.
- Ruffly, wavy edges. Too many stitches — you probably added an extra 3-dc group in a side space. The side count should grow by exactly one group per side, per round.
- A gap at the join. Normal on Round 1; it closes up once you pull the magic ring tight and weave the tail through the first stitches.
Your questions, answered
Why does my granny square curl?
Curling almost always means your tension is too tight or your hook is too small. Try going up a hook size, and keep your yarn feeding loosely. A little curl also relaxes once the square is blocked.
Why isn't my granny square staying square?
If the corners drift, you've likely missed a corner ch-2 space or worked a 3-dc group into the wrong gap. Count your groups at the end of each round — you should have 4 groups on Round 1, 8 on Round 2, 12 on Round 3, and 16 on Round 4.
Can I make this granny square bigger?
Yes. Keep repeating the Round 4 logic: work a (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in every corner and one 3-dc group in every side space along the way. Each new round adds four groups, so the square grows evenly.
Do I have to change color every round?
Not at all. This pattern changes color each round for that classic berry look, but you can work all four rounds in one color for a solid square, or repeat two colors for stripes.
Want a printable version?
Grab the free Granny Square Starter Kit — this pattern plus a hook & yarn cheat sheet, print-ready.
Get the free starter kitSee all Granny Squares patterns
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